Itineraries:
Architecture
Some suggestions for those interested in discovering fine examples of domestic and municipal architecture in East Sussex, spanning nearly 1000 years of English history.
Day one
The discovery of the curative powers of sea air and sea-water in the latter part of the eighteenth century led to the establishment of several elegant resorts on the South coast, and Brighton & Hove boasts some of the finest Georgian and Regency architecture in the country. Visit the Regency Town House in Brunswick Square, majestic Adelaide Crescent and the most exotic palace in Europe, the Royal Pavilion. The West Pier, soon to be restored to its former glory, and the Palace Pier are fine examples of the resort's Victorian past; while upper class Edwardian life is convincingly recreated at Preston Manor. Stop for afternoon tea on the seafront, or treat yourself to tea at the Grand. Complete the day with dinner at one of around 400 restaurants and bistros, and a visit to the theatre, a concert or a show at one of the resort's major venues.
Day two
Start the day with a visit to Herstmonceux Castle, a magnificent brick-built, moated castle in a parkland setting. Another castle not to be missed is Pevensey Castle, which began life as a Roman fortress. In 491, resident Britons were massacred there by invading Anglo-Saxons. William the Conqueror landed nearby in 1066, and made important modifications to Pevensey Castle; and during the following four centuries it was attacked and besieged many times. As late as 1940 Pevensey was made ready to defend the South coast, and you can still see World War II gun emplacements and pill boxes within the walls.
Then on to Battle, a delightful market-town dominated by Battle Abbey, built by William the Conqueror to commemorate his victory over Harold. Enjoy a stroll across the now peaceful battlefield.
Begin the afternoon in Bodiam Castle, a fairy-tale castle dating from 1385. Cross the bridge over the broad moat and be transported into the past. As you make your way towards Rye, look out for the white-painted, conical chimneys that cap the 'oast houses' - farm-buildings in which, until a generation ago, the local hops were dried before being sent to the brewers. Perhaps the most famous garden in the area is that belonging to the medieval manor house of Great Dixter, in Northiam, restored in 1910 by the Edwardian architect, Sir Edwin Lutyens. Lutyens added a fine hall-house dating from around 1500, which he had dismantled and incorporated into the structure. It has both tie and hammer beams, and sets off a beautiful collection of furniture and tapestries.
Rye is a gem of a small town, its picturesque medieval streets climbing up to the 12th century St Mary's Church which dominates the town. The finest street is Mermaid Street, with its cobble-stones and many handsome houses, including a genuine smugglers' haunt, the Mermaid Inn. The church has interesting features such as the 'Quarter Boys', which come out to strike the quarter-hours, and a long pendulum that sweeps over the heads of the worshippers. From the tower, the visitor has a magnificent view of the surrounding countryside and sea. The superbly detailed Rye Town Model is of particular interest to lovers of architecture. A mini sound and light show traces the town's historical evolution over many centuries.
Day three
Before leaving this beautiful part of England, visit Bexhill's De La Warr Pavilion, one of the finest examples of Modernist architecture. Designed in 1934 by the German architect Erich Mendelsohn, it was the first major building in this country to be constructed with a welded steel frame. This Grade 1 listed Pavilion is evolving as an arts and cultural centre, with frequent exhibitions of twentieth century art, architecture and design.
In the Old Town of Hastings are All Saints Street and High Street, with many timbered houses and tiny courtyards called 'twittens'. The medieval churches of All Saints and St Clements are well worth a visit. The Netshops, where the local fishermen stored and mended their nets, are unique to Hastings. Between the Old Town and the modern town-centre are two gems of Hastings' Regency and Georgian past the splendid Wellington Square, and the even more elegant Pelham Crescent, with St.Mary-in-the-Castle, a church with a most interesting history, recently transformed into an arts centre with spectacular acoustics. St.Leonards, the other half of Hastings & St Leonards, is the work of James Burton, a Victorian builder, and his architect son Decimus. Between them they developed an elegant seaside resort for people of fashion which, though it lacks the broad sweep of Eastbourne's elegant boulevards, has a sense of unity and much genteel charm.
Further sites of architectural interest
Bateman's, at Burwash - the home of writer Rudyard Kipling. It was originally built for a Wealden ironmaster, and is now owned by the National Trust.
The village of Winchelsea, near Rye. The settlement was built on a grid pattern, for the first time in England, on the orders of Edward I, after the original old town of Winchelsea was washed away by storms in 1287.
Westham Church, near Pevensey: perhaps the first church to be built by the Normans after 1066.
The village of Sedlescombe, on the A21 just north of Hastings, has many tile-hung buildings in the typical Sussex style, around a village green with its parish pump.
The High Street in Robertsbridge has many picturesque timbered façades.
The villages of the South Downs are charming, with their houses and garden-walls of flintstone. The most photographed of them all is Alfriston, with many beautiful buildings including the 14th C thatched and timbered Clergy House, a Wealden 'hall house', the first building to be acquired by the National Trust.
Lamb House, in Rye, is a handsome building that has had some famous literary tenants: Henry James, E.F.Benson and Rumer Godden.
